Being awoken
by the sound of singing birds, opening your eyes to see your partner lying
beside you or awakening to the smell of fresh pancakes are all traditionally
great ways to start the day. Waking up on a rope bed with an angry goat gnawing
on your trousers is a far less pleasant way to start the day I assure you. Nevertheless,
in the summer of 2007, this was the situation I found myself in.
Confused,
hot and restless, from a sleep interrupted by the sound of gunfire and screams,
I slowly awoke in the middle of the vast Pakistani countryside in a small town
within the region of Gujrat. My head lulled back on to the edge of the bed and
I gazed up towards the sky – I say bed but in reality it was no more than a
broken old wooden frame held together by a series of pieces of rope bound
together, although the patterns on the rope may have had some aesthetic value,
the notion of comfort had clearly not been considered in the design. With no
mattress, sheets or pillows, I lay with my head tilted back gazing at the sky
above. Blue. Just blue. With a big yellow circle in the middle of it. Not a
cloud in sight. Just a big boring sea of fucking blue. Bleary eyed and confused
as to why someone had decided to throw a blanket over me during the night, even
though the temperature in Pakistan during the summer rarely drops below 32
degrees Celsius, I attempted to kick the half ripped piece of tat off my “bed”
but felt a strange pull on my right leg. Naturally, sharing the residence with
about 10 other children I knew one of the kids was playing some stupid game.
“Ah not now” I mumbled in Urdu whilst closing my eyes. I tried to roll over but
again felt the same yank on my trouser leg as I did before – “I’m not in the
mood” I grunted slightly more forcefully this time. Once more I pulled my leg
away, once more I felt the yank on my trouser leg. I snapped. I jumped straight
up and sat bolt upright so I could confront the little shit face to face. As I
opened my eyes I roared “I SAID I’M NOT IN THE FU-”. Silence. My eyes were
certainly wide open now. There was no cousin at the end of my wood-rope
contraption but rather a grey old goat, with a mouth full of my trousers. I
find often in moments like this time has a tendency to slow down, the relentless
march of the clock slows to a gentle trudge, as if to give you the opportunity
to realise how fucked up this moment really is. Shocked, confused and utterly
silent I stared blankly into the goat’s eyes, it stared back (whilst still
chewing on a mouthful of my trouser leg might I add). My head lolled slightly
to the right and then back again whilst maintaining perfect eye contact. I had
just woken up in the middle of the remote Pakistani countryside on a bed made
of rope with an old grey goat chewing on my trousers. There was only one thing
to do in this situation “MUUUUUUUUM HELP A GOATS TRYING TO KILL MEEEE!”
admittedly a slight exaggeration but then again I do like a sense of theatre.
The goat rather than being frightened by the scream, seemed tired of the old
chewing the trouser routine and decided to meander off to find its next garment
to ruin. So there I was left in the courtyard of a broken old house in a
derelict area of Gujrat. I gazed around my surroundings trying to find some
semblance of Western normality in this strange menagerie, around me I saw
children chasing chickens around a withered tree, old women sat cleaning
clothes over large plastic tubs bickering over village gossip, grizzled men sat
smoking on white plastic garden chairs and in the distance I could see a broken
toilet with no door and flies circling above.
“I think
this is yours” a young cousin stammered as he passed me a torn shoe – clearly
my trouser leg was just the entrée before the main course of a black converse
boot. Not even pancakes and bird songs could have saved this morning.
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